A Crazy Knife …For Life!

Okay, I give up. You got me.

I’m going to make a knife. There, I said it.

I’ve been asked again …and again …and again to make a knife.

But I just have to make a confession:

I’m NOT making a fancy-pants, over-the-top “shelf queen” kinda knife.

Nope.

The knife I’m making is very specific …and I’m making it 100% for myself.

But that’s only half the story…

I was with a friend the other day and, while we were talking, he put his keys on the table. And, like the complete freaky-weirdo-designer-obsessive guy I am, I zoned-out out of the conversation while looking at his key-chain setup.

I didn’t even listen to the rest of what he was saying …I grabbed his keys …held up the small pocket-sized knife on it …and interrupted with, “Where did you get THIS?”

On his key-chain he had the most fantastic little knife. It was kinda-chunky… but, for an (obviously) mass-produced thing, it had a good shape and size. I played with it for a bit. It was incredibly functional and felt like it could do some real work!

Then it hit me:

THAT is what I’m missing from my personal key-chain setup. A small, highly-functional knife!

Now, if you know me by now, you’ll understand I simply can’t just go out and buy that same knife. Of course I can’t.

Two main reasons

Firstly:

It’s not the exact knife I want. There were  a few things that didn’t quite work for me. So that won’t do.

Secondly:

It was “okay” quality. So, obviously, I’m not going to settle for that either.

Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m not purposely arrogant and elitist when it comes to only carrying the best stuff on my key-chain (and that kinda spills-over into the products I make myself) …I think it could be a genetic disorder. Basically, I can’t help it.

Therefore,

I have to make a knife. I need a knife. I want a knife.

I’ve done some initial (and rather rough) sketching – here, take a look:

Some initial sketches of my new obsession...

Some initial sketches of my new obsession…

Some initial specifications:

The length of the blade will be around 40mm (1.5″)

The blade will be made from proper knife steel (I don’t know much about this side of things and so, if  you know about this kinda thing, I’d love to hear from you in the comments or my email)

The handle will be titanium

There will be a hole in the rear of the handle so it can be attached to a key-chain

Both the blade and handle will be somewhat “chunky” …because this is the knife that’s going to be on my key-chain for the rest of my life. 🙂

Your thoughts?

  • Eolake says:

    I think it’s a great idea.

    I have a Spiderco Bug knife. Actually I have all three sizes of it, I love it and its looks. And I have the middle size in my leather key folder. (The smallest is crazy small.)

  • Michael says:

    Hi Magnus,
    Brilliant idea!! I will certainly buy one but please make it non-locking! so us UK people can carry it legally!

    Thanks

  • Daniele Alexander Grote says:

    Love the idea! I’m not a knife steel expert, but I own a few nice ones.. S35v or m390 are the best ones I’ve used so far. Can’t wait to see how it evolves!

  • Bent says:

    That’s awesome that you will make a knife
    Small and mighty

  • Stevep says:

    Legal carry is an issue in some places

  • Daniel Bromley says:

    Haha, I was wondering how long it would take, can’t wait

  • Sylvia Farrat says:

    Food for thought… I think the tension lock doesn’t always have to be a straight line….

  • Daniel Perucchi says:

    Cool…i absolutely love the idea of you creating a knife..please make this real 🙂 i like your initial sketches…i think a knife need a certain size so i prefer it to be rather a bit bulky than too small…also it would be nice to be able to open it with one hand (like the spiderco knifes)

  • Phil says:

    If you make this, you should make a bigger one that clips to a pocket, or could be worn in a pouch on a belt. I would be 1st in line to buy it.

  • Knife steel will depend on what you want out of it.

    Easily sharpened? AEB-L?
    Longest lasting edge? S90V/M390
    Best corrosion resistance? Cronidur 30
    Toughest (doesn’t seem needed to me since it’s such a small knife)? 3V
    Best value for money? Niolox? (my personal favourite)
    Prettiest? Some kind of damascus?

    Or jack of all trades master of none?

  • Shawn Beng says:

    I think this is going to be AWESOME!!! Can’t wait to see the final product. Best wishes!

  • Jacob says:

    I am with Eolake. I am also a frequent user of spyderco and they come in handy all the time. But please please make it a flipper. Being able to open the knife one-handed is key when you need it. Because you’re probably holding what ever needs cutting in your other hand when you realise it needs cutting. Also keep us southpaws in mind too. I am a commercial diver and I am always looking for that serrated blade for easy and quick opening with my left hand while on deck. Not easy to find I can tell you. Design looks awesome and I will buy it if you make them. Do it!!

  • Tammy says:

    154CM steel is a great choice for this kind of thing. Not over the top super steel, but good quality, affordable stainless.
    If you want an even better steel, look at CPM154, or S90V. For a balls to the wall super steel, look at M390.

  • Lucas says:

    Can. Not. Wait! It would be great if you were able to open it with just one hand. Take a look at the Kershaw Leek or Spyderco knives for the way they can be operated one handed. Do you think you could also do a larger one? Like one to take camping, etc? I will be a customer for sure!

    Also, is there any more news / pics of the Ti wallet you mentioned a while back? I’m really excited about that too!

    • Thanks Lucas.

      For now the knife is going to be for a specific purpose and so it will be one (small) size, one style, etc.

      Yeah, progress on the wallet is continuing. I’m hoping to have a good prototype in the next couple of weeks.

  • Peter says:

    Single handed opening of possible, I’ll have one anyway

  • JPR says:

    Can not wait for this. I’ve been waiting for something like this and coupled with your build quality and attention to detail, this is going to be it! Also, like the idea some others have already mentioned of being able to open this one handed.

  • Gabriele says:

    Everything that is somehow like a knife…I like it! Blade shape hasn’t to be so similar to a cutter…tanto or clip point would be better…for me

  • Dana says:

    Left-handed too, please.

  • Michael says:

    Very cool Magnus, design is pretty cool as well. For the knifesteel i would go for m390, s90v or steels with similar properties.

    Will it be a framelock, friction folder or slipjoint? In case it will be a friction folder you might want to check into ways of locking the blade in closed position so one won’t Stab him/ hersteld when reaching into the pockets. (Look at spyderco dog tag system or viper dan series for hidden locking mechanisms for slipjoint/ friction folders.

    Something that would be rad is an small integral Keychain folding Knife. Will make it a little more expensive but totally worth it imho.

    Cool idea, would love to see this Turn out into something cool, i know i would buy one!

    Cheers,

    Mike
    IG: knives_n_blade

  • jeb says:

    hmmm, I like tanto point !
    I got a small EDC knife named ARC from richard roghers, which is kinda similar as yours but looks more slim

  • David Wright says:

    Great idea just something to note. Not sure of knife carrying laws in New Zealand but in the UK it is illegal to carry a knife that has a locking blade

  • Onip says:

    Hi!

    Take a look at the Spiderco Bug Knife. It’s a good design and a good knife. If you want a knife in your pocket, it got to be with round shape , no angle or sharp angles. As the bug knife, available in different sizes, it could be a good avenue for yours… Can’t wait to see what you will come up with…

  • Dixon says:

    That’s an awesome idea Magnus! You should go ahead and ‘kickstart’ this project into reality.
    =)

  • Ryan says:

    154CM is a good all around steel, S30V is more expensive but pretty much considered the top of the line production knife steel, really good balance of edge retention, hardness and chip resistance but not too hard to sharpen. Might want to look into adding some grip to it as well, either jimping (cuts into the top and bottom of the frame) or some kind of milled texture on the sides.

  • Steve says:

    Oooh! A knife. Lots of knife snobs out there will be only too happy to give you their holy grail knife specs. Me included. You seem to be thinking folder from the outset. The true ‘knife for life’ would likely be a small, bombproof full-tang fixed blade. Folding means moving parts and pivots/bearings/liners, hence multiple potential long-term wiggle and failure points. Look at what makers are doing in what are loosely termed ‘neck knives.’ Type of steel is another pandora’s box. Carbon vs Stainless. You’re a metals guy, so you know what’s out there. To me, your blade in good old tough D2 steel would get the job done without getting too exotic. Your sketches seem to be riffing on the tanto style, which I like. It could give you a strong tip that’s harder to break than a more slender dagger style with a narrow tip. For long term ease of maintenance, the easiest blade shape and grind type to resharpen would be better though. And that’s not maybe a tanto.
    But…this is YOUR knife and I’m sure it will come out brilliant. put me down for one.

    • It’s comments like these that make me have to print out all the comments …because there is so much good information compacted into it. 😀

      Yeah, I’m starting to see that I know literally nothing about knives. Starting right at the beginning.

      Some people are saying stainless and some are saying it must be carbon. Hmmm. Got some weekend researching to do!

  • Dale Carr says:

    I would suggest that you not make it too chunky or it will really weigh the keychain down. I’d keep it at no more than 1 ounce. Also, make it a back lock or a mid lock. A frame lock or liner lock can/will accidentally open in the pocket. Finally, I’d use A truly stainless steel like H1. It has no carbon so it can’t rust. It’s a little softer but keys are often carried in sweaty pockets.

  • Paul says:

    Combine the svord peasant knife with a ti handle like a Gerber paraframe.

  • Donald Perreault says:

    I have several Titanium framed knives. I’ve purchased pretty much every product you make, many in duplicate. Of course I am going to purchase your knife, whether I need it or not. I know if you design and build a knife, it will be the held to your standard, which is **Top Quality** as all your other products are. Looking forward to my new tweezers and a new knife.

  • jimbeaux says:

    Glass breaker in the butt of the knife, serrated edge at proximal end of knife blade near the pivot for cutting wire/rope/cord. Spring assisted opening or one handed opening a plus

  • Andy Jones says:

    Hi Magnus

    You may want to look at 440C, CPM-S30V, 154-CM, 12C27 and AUS8 steels for corrosion resistance. Kabar uses 1095 but this needs looking after however it is easy to sharpen. Bomb proof steel is CPM-3V but it is expensive. A good read is’ Metallurgy of Steel for Bladesmiths & Others Who Heat and Forge Steel’ by John D Verhoven available as a free pdf off the tinterweb. Any questions you can email me directly and I will try to help. Also if you are looking at the UK market a non locking version would be good as our police take a dim view of any EDC knife that locks. The blade also needs to be 3 inches or 7.62 cm long or less.

    Cheers

    Andy

    • Someone above mentioned that the UK is not keen on locking knives. This must be a new thing because I had various forms of them growing up… bought from retails stores.

      Also, thank you for the PDF recommendation – great stuff. My printer is going to be begging for mercy!

  • José says:

    Titanium holder and I’ve heard that Damascus Steel for the blade is the best out there. What do you think?

  • Daniel says:

    I have serious doubts this idea makes any real sense. How do you intend to keep the blade sharp? Either it needs to be replaceable (and then the whole thing would turn out more like a carpet cutter than the knife you’re describing) or it needs to be rather massive to be sharpened by conventional tools (and actually stay sharp). All my knives are highest grades of either German of Japanese stainless steel and I wouldn’t even look at anything less.

    Anywhoo, anything is supposed to end up on my keychain has to be small *and* plane cabin compatible and as such your project is a complete fail for me and I’m definitely passing on this one.

    • Thanks for the comment Daniel. Man, it’s really hitting me how little I know about this whole knife thing… I didn’t even know about the blade-length/sharpening thing.

      Great comment Daniel!

  • mary says:

    Maybe you could make the same style in two sizes — one very portable and one less portable. I am glad you have the hole in the handle. I wouldn’t mind some easy to remove clip on it for removing the knife from the keychain. We have had our little pocket knives confiscated when going into buildings we didn’t realize had security restrictions against knives of any size (we live in Europe, but I suspect similar measures will be coming to the US).

  • Wayne says:

    Great idea!

    I wear a neck knife 24×7, minus showers. Yes, I sleep with it on. Small is important, 1.5 inch blade will only work if it folds. Folding will only work if you can open it easily with the one hand you use to remove it from your neck chain. It must also be easy to put back on your neck chain when done. Preferably with one hand.

    If you had a one inch blade in the form factor you have in your drawing, you could make it a fixed blade, but make the titanium sheath (that connects to the neck chain) an almost seamless extension to the handle, then come up with a creative retention system to release the knife. It would look like a titanium pendent on the neck. Reach, squeeze (or whatever to release) and pull. Snort and push to return.

    Titanium handle and seamless sheath, s30v or 154cv steel blade. Impossibly high standards. Another sale here.

    • Steve says:

      Yes, that sounds different. Titanium in a sheath and handle that join almost seamlessly when the knife is sheathed. Could make the most of Ti as a material and showcase that precision fit and finish. Tiny but tough and perfectly formed. Nice idea Wayne.

    • Great comment Wayne. I didn’t even know what a “neck knife” was until reading these comments.

      Yeah, I don’t think it will be a one-piece design. I really want this knife to be key-chain friendly.

  • Roony says:

    Hey Magnus,

    I always love your stuff so this intrigues me, but what would be REALLY cool is if your handle could be compatible with the mini stanley blades from the Rolson folding mini knives. I’ve got some and they are super handy – and the replaceable blades always help.

    http://www.uktoolcentre.co.uk/Shop/p~60093~2-Piece-Mini-Foldable-Knife-Set.html

  • Peter says:

    I hope it doesn’t have a frame lock for right handed people – drives me crazy…

  • Laura says:

    Check out https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/471996800/the-ultimate-titanium-keychain-knife-for-everyday

    I have one, and they are pretty good. I’m sure you will make changes, but this is pretty close to what you are describing.

  • reiner says:

    I know a lot about knives and LIFE LONG knives are important to me. If this knife is to last a life time in the hands of a hipster, it wont need anything too special. But if it is to last for generations in the hands of a bushman or a tradesman as his every day mini utility knife then there are a few things to think about:

    -do you want a blade that is RAZOR SHARP and EASY to RE-sharpen? then make it a Scandi edge. But if you want a blade that will hold a RAZOR edge as long as possible and then become exceedingly hard to re-sharpen? then go for a Hollow Ground edge. (all my utility and work knives are a scandi grind, they are so easy to maintain a wicked edge.

    -Do you want a steel that will hold an edge for ever and almost never wear down its edge… but takes time to re-sharpen if you ever have to, go for CPM S90V, S110V or M390 all 3 of these will blow your mind. OR if you want something with a bit more corrosion resistance and a little bit easier to sharpen (but still an amazing edge) go for CPM-20CV. These are not cheap metals but you want the best? thats them!

    -Do you want to go further? like crazy over the top with this blade? then there are 2 other Technologies to look at. Tripple laminated steel: you get a super high carbon alloy steel in the center and sandwich it between some high end stainless… say CPM S110V between N680… or even a good Titanium/steel laminate with the CPM S110V in the center. see the Helle ‘temagami-ca’ for a great example.

    -and lastly Treat the edge of the blade with a Tungston carbide (carbidizing) This works fantastic if done right on a titanium edge… but never really sharpens as good as a nice carbon steel.

    good luck and keep us posted!

    • Reiner! Man ,thank you for this comment …it’s helped me hugely in the blade-department.

      I really like the idea of never (or almost never) having to sharpen it. Going to look further into this triple-laminated stuff and the carbidizing.

  • Horacio says:

    Please make it legal to carry in Europe/UK…

    That mean less than 7.5 cm, but also non-locking. For a functional knife you want to carry always with you it’s a big bonus to be able to carry it legally, isn’t it?

    Something like the Pingo, my current EDC (https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=781), more an utility knife that a “tactical” knife…

  • William Schinella says:

    Great idea, can’t wait to see the finished model! Count me in!

  • todd says:

    D2. HARDEN it to 60

  • If you’re feeling really crazy, you could make the blade out of titanium as well… ala:

    http://emersonknives.com/ek_faq/how-can-you-use-titanium-for-a-knife-blade/

  • Miroslav says:

    Essentially I am writing this just to encourage you to go ahead, like some others I thought it was a matter of time before you go for a knife. I would say 4cm blade is a bit too much for something dangling on a key ring but since I do not carry a knife on a key ring, not my problem, right.
    I am indeed curious about how it turns out, just for reference, it will compete for my pocket with Spyderco Delica 4 Titanium Damascus (VG10 steel) and Al Mar SLB (AUS 8, less fancy but I love that size). Key aspects for me other than materials: one hand opening, clip that does not tear my pocket — this cannot be underestimated). No preference in the locking mechanism. Good luck and looking forward for this.

  • Peter Amsel says:

    Looks like a great idea, Magnus. One of my favourite knives has a mechanism which allows the knife to be opened one-handed by pulling (with a finger) on a rounded lever on the top of the knife, near the base of the blade, causing the blade to fold out and lock at the base. It can then be released (one-handed) by pushing against the lever with the thumb and folding the blade back into the housing.

    As for blade materials, I’d recommend AUS 8 as a really rock solid steel with low carbon content; it holds its edge really well and requires virtually no maintenance. Alas, I lost my AUS 8 blade … Damascus would be amazing too, but extraordinarily expensive … 🙂

    • Thank you Peter.

      Yeah, that would be great to have that finger “flip” function (I’m sure it has a proper term). It would be illegal in many countries I’m sure – so, yeah, have to think about that.

      • reiner says:

        you can mak a removable screw in stud for the thumb flipper thingy, ship it with the stud not attached to countries with tight laws

  • Kienan says:

    Wow, that will be cool! Make it super razor sharp. As sharp as possible.

  • EJ says:

    Great Idea… Always need something to cut away an edge, Irish pendant, etc.. Would be great design if it could design the best of a razor blade and box cutter type functions to scrape as well as cut.
    Thanks!
    ej

  • JC Oliveira says:

    That is funny! I received YESTERDAY a keychain Titanium knife with similar specs, which I got from a KickStarter project, and it looks amazing. It uses hardened AUS-8 stainless steel for the blade and grade 5 titanium for the body. It is a one hand operated, spring loaded, lockable, exceptionally sharp fold knife. You should have a look at the Bandit Titanium keychain knife: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/471996800/the-ultimate-titanium-keychain-knife-for-everyday/description

    I guess you are a bit late, but I’ll keep an eye on your design nevertheless. Your “The One” pen was quite a turn off, but you have great designs in other projects. Make sure to look around established knife manufacturers for inspiration.

    For a keychain I guess a folding knife is the way to go. A fix blade knife, albeit interesting, may have the blade too exposed for this setup. Unless you come up with some crazy design that works!

  • James says:

    Keep it small and narrow. The spyder knives are excellent for a key ring. I also have a mini Cold Steel that I really like. The Japanese have some excellent designs for folders. I have several of those. One of your sketches looks very much like one of the Japanese knives I have. Beautiful design, great blade, simple and elegant. A hair too long for a key ring but lovely knife.
    Remember it’s for a key ring – not everyday use. Just occasional. Locking and one handed are nice to have but maybe overkill for the intended purpose.

  • TLOS says:

    I would like to see something I can take on a plane, otherwise I have to disassemble half my keychain before I start a trip. That would rule out steel blades I believe, what about a ceramic one? Granted, it may not have a strong tip, but that may not be needed in simple cutting, unboxing and SERE situations.

    • reiner says:

      no, they used cheap steel… and cheap grind.

    • Evan says:

      I have the Bandit keychain knife. And while the blade steel is decent, came with a poor edge though, the thumb stud seriously hampers usability. With such a small blade it gets in the way when I try to sharpen on my Spyderco Sharpmaker and when making cuts to full depth of the length of the blade. I would be in if you go ahead. And if you do I strongly suggest you use a Chris Reeve-style thumb nick which he does on his Mnandi. Its an innovation which should be used in place of the thumb stud in many instances in my opinion. I say go for it. I’m sure you can come with something better than the Bandit.

  • Vincent Goudreault says:

    Why not go exotic with the blade as well? Zirconium dioxide, or titanium with a nitride or carbide edge? Of course, the downside is that the blades production would have to be contracted out, I am pretty sure that making them calls for tooling that are rather specialized.

  • Ken Nelson says:

    My suggestion would be make it similar to the Gerber EAB lite 31-000345 which uses a standard utility blade. Then we can put in a carbide edge blade for ultimate use or use any standard off the shelf blade. You would make the “handle” out of titanium and your specs. (do what you do best”) not worrying about blade steel, heat treat, sharpening etc.

  • David S. Shenawy says:

    Include a chisel function to your blade shape (similar to the Graham Razel).

    And if possible grab some CTS-xhp or something else that has good edge retention and is ease to sharpen.

    • David S. Shenawy says:

      Include a chisel function to your blade shape (similar to the Graham Razel).

      If you haven’t; check out Marcin Slysz’s work. Maybe Warren Thomas as well.

      And if possible grab some CTS-xhp or something else that has good edge retention and is ease to sharpen.

    • reiner says:

      Agree with the chisel function… great addition to an EDC

  • William says:

    Sounds good! The A-2 & O-1 are relatively ‘easy’ for getting a proper heat treat but neither makes a good pocket knife lacking sufficient chrome content.
    I like Elmax, N690, & (especially) CPM-154 for high-end blade steels that have high chrome content. Heat treat is key.

  • DanielS says:

    I love the tanto point you have sketched, already looking like a winner! What kind of blade lock were you thinking? bearings? Options for a ceramic blade?

  • Stephen says:

    I’m sure that any knife you create would be a joy to have around but if it has a lockable blade or can be flipped open single-handed then it won’t be legal to have as “everyday carry” in the UK so I’d have bow out. Magnus, I don’t know how often you come back to the UK but that may be something to consider…

    • Man, what’s the reasoning behind not having a locking blade? Must be a new thing in the UK.

      …next they’ll be specifying that knifes cannot have a blade. Everyone just carrying around handles.

  • MikeM74 says:

    Im in!

  • Bob Watcher says:

    A CARBON Steel Blade is essential!!!

  • Ben says:

    To be considered best of the best, it needs to have a damascus steel blade…costly, but would be extremely unique and one-of-a-kind if the quality matches your other efforts.

    I will be keeping a close on on this as it develops.

  • Paul says:

    How about something that uses a disposable razor as a blade?

  • Jaak says:

    I really like the design of this blade so far and extremely excited about it. I just hope the finished product can be imported to Australia. Many good knife manufacturers forget about us having strict knife laws, meaning we cannot buy any of their knives or risk having them seized.

  • Hiram says:

    Your heading into deep waters Magnus. And I very much want to see where you end up heading. There are so many great knife makers out there who share your obsessive nature. Always room for more. It looks like your thinking about a modified Wharncliff with a tanto point. I think that would be excellent small blade. The small knives I have with this profile are aggressive cutters. I think a chisel point in a tiny knife would have too much drag. In keychain knives I find Spydercos the all around best. They have a wide range of blade profiles which you might find interesting. My favorite is the Cricket, with it’s unusual bird beak blade it cuts like a much larger knife. Most of the tiny knives I’ve seen have been flat or scandi grinds. Both are easy to maintain. If your making your own blades I assume your using stock reduction. I’d recommend not using too high a grind in that this could make the edge too fragile. Many suitable steel types. I’d say something stain resistant, that has a good balance between edge retention and ease of sharpening. AUS 8 is a good all around choice. A quality steel that has seen much use. I’ve seen many other good suggestions here. As much as I love damascus and other exotics, I feel this would be out of place for this project. A slightly longer blade would be good for me. I cannot over stress the importance of the heat treatment. This is a make or break point, an improper heat treat will ruin the blade, making it weak. I am very opposed to the idea of using cheap disposable blades. A cheap blade in a quality frame is a deal breaker for me and not in line with the dedication to quality I’ve come to expect in you. I like what I see in your frame profile ideas. I think a bit chunky is good, gives you a bit more to hold on to. A high bevel on the frame might give a nice index point for the thumb. As far as locks, my region has fairly liberal regs in this area, but in a keychain knife sturdy locks are not essential . Still I do prefer a lock. I’ve never had a properly made frame or liner lock fail on me. Tolerances are very close in these, Cogent is all about fine tolerances though. None of the tiny knives I have with flippers or thumb studs open smoothly. Too short a throw, at least for my fingers. Spydercos are the best opening, but the Spyderco hole is trademarked. As a knife geek with a metal addiction I’m am very amped up about this project. Do what you do, no compromise , and I am there.

    • Man, thank you for this comment Hiram! (I’m so glad I printed out these comments to really study them)

      Some great thoughts from you – I have a few things to study now from what you have said. Awesome.

      Deep waters indeed.

  • Blake Smith says:

    Take my money please!

  • Steven smith says:

    Yes S35V or M390 would be perfect and it sounds freaking fantastic. I will absolutely but one.

  • Matthew Otto says:

    I’m the Master Grinder at Chris Reeve Knives. If I can help let me know.

  • Geary Hunsinger says:

    100% for your self? Let me know when you want to build one thatside up your standards for everyone.

    Ps I build French toast 100% for myself this morning.

  • Evan says:

    Heat treat can make an average steel much better and a good steel worse. Buck’s is well known and respected. Their 420HC takes a very good edge and resharpens easily. Not a steel junkie’s choice but supersteels can be a pain to sharpen. I prefer sharpening more often and getting to a satisfyingly sharp edge more easily.

    For me a modified Wharncliff on a small blade is best. A tanto grind makes no sense to me on a small knife. That’s for hard use penetration, to my understanding, but it looks cool to some…

  • Rob says:

    Hi Magnus,
    I see a bunch of people commenting about blade design and steel. Steel is subjective. The harder the steel the harder to sharpen. And there is a new wonder steel every few months.
    What I wanted to mention is proper heat treatment. Of course for the blade but in the titanium. Yes titanium. In your design it appears to be a modified version of the Chris Reeve integral lock from the Sebenza. Chris is one of the only people to heat treat his titanium to make it harder. The reason is because where the titanium meets the blade to engage the lock, there is wear. Titanium being much softer will eventually wear down and adding wobble or play in the blade. Finally you are stuck with an unsafe tool. Others (see Hinderer) have dealt with this problem by adding a steel end to the lock bar. This is an option but adds more parts to a knife.
    Just something more to think about.
    Rob

  • jim says:

    I LIKE TO SEE H1 STEEL BECAUSE IT WILL BE EXPOSED TO THE ELEMENTS ON YOUR KEY CHAIN. LOW MAINTENANE AND GREAT STEEL . ALSO MORE AFFORDABLE. I’LL BUY ONE IF MAKE IT HAPPEN.

  • Mika says:

    Why not keep it titanium all the way. My diving knife is all Ti and one of the best blades I’ve ever had. I’m no metallurgist, but Ti seems to do the job very well, at least in serrated blade. Completely service free, even in seawater environments, and I’ve never had to sharpen it, although it’s been seeing some rough use.
    A nice damascus-steel blade is lovely to look at, but horrid to maintain, and I just don’t see that as your style.
    Some of the new laminate stuff might be cool, but the “old fashioned” full metal is probably more resilient to time and abuse, which at least my gear too often sees.

    Looking forward to hearing more on this one

  • Josiah says:

    Since you demand nothing but the best, I will recommend
    M390 or
    CPM-20cv stainless steel. I believe that they are good for the this type of knife due to their great corrosion resistance and edge retention. These are the qualities I would prefer over toughness and ease of sharpening.
    Some others recommended CPM154cm or s30v but I think those are subpar for this grade knife.

  • GL JIM says:

    I strongly agree with josiah. CPM -20CV’s been tested extensively and earned its reputation and so is the M390 throughout the knife world. I got knives made with these supersteels.

  • Christopher says:

    Please keep in mind the local knife laws in the countries you’re targeting. In the UK, importing a knife is very difficult as it could be seized and destroyed by customs.

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